Material handling apparatus and method

ABSTRACT

This invention relates to a method and equipment for handling and treating material segments which are connected in endless fashion or are to be treated and reconnected in the same manner. The method and apparatus for handling connected segments includes feeding the segments through a material feeding section which positively and sequentially moves the connected segments in alignment along a predetermined path of travel and separates the segments by a cutter for subsequent handling by related machinery. The method and apparatus for treating the separated and aligned segments includes introducing the segments sequentially to programmed sewing instrumentalities suitably adapted to sew or stitch a preselected design across each of the segments, the segment being selectively positioned with respect to the sewing instrumentalities by suitable means.

[451 Dec. 17, 1974 United States Patent [19] Bryan 5 2 l llw L LL 25223 1 11 MHUHH mama mm wmyw .l. 3 a m m mia BaOd STRNA 009999 66666 99999 HHHHH 24000 27473 44 440 3mm 33333 D N N A S m o w A n e m m P G P a A n. a m w B m J N w A m H a L Y C MD R0 0 EH m TT 6 AE v I MM n l. 4 5 5 7 [73] Assignee: Blue Bell, lnc., Greensboro, NC.

[22] Filed:

3,531,107 9/1970 Rovin et al.

May 22, 1972 pp NOI: 255,910 Primary Exammer lames R. Boler Related US. Application Data Continuation of Ser. No. 675,947, Oct. abandoned.

connected in endless fashion or are to be treated and 112/l21il1, 112/205, 112/130 Int.

reconnected in the same manner. The method and apparatus for handling connected segments includes eding the segments through a material feeding section which positively and sequentially moves the connected segments in alignment along a predetermined .m 5 4 M 1 O u7w 1 1 1 .2 l 24 1 ,2m 3 "L0 m fi l WWW 1 1 ,n, mom '1 h ,5 n a e16 S 7 M 1 M .E F 0d 5 l.

path of travel and separates the segments by a cutter [56] References C'ted for subsequent handling by related machinery. The UNITED STATES PATENTS methodv and apparatus for treating the separated and aligned segments includes introducing the segments sequentially to programmed sewing instrumentalities suitably adapted to sew or stitch a preselected design across each of the segments, the segment being selectively positioned with respect to the sewing instrumentalities by suitable means.

25 Claims, 20 Drawing Figures Pmmw w 3.854.430

SHEET 10F 4 n r////// /////////JE a PAIENTEU 71974 3.854.430

SHEET 3 or 4 IIHHIIHIIHIH 208 volt. F 8

PATENTEU DEC 7 7 I974 SHEET 4 OF 4 FM I pre- 3 0 POWER SOURCE i FIGJS MATERIAL HANDLING APPARATUS AND METHOD This is a continuation of application Ser. No. 675,947, filed Oct. 17, 1967 now abandoned.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION In the manufacture of articles, apparel and similar sewn materials, segments of fabric which will form a particular garment component are normally seamed continuously by a sewing machine and thus connected or chained by one or more linking threads. In order to handle these segments effectively during subsequent garment making operations, particularly when other automatic equipment is to be used, it is necessary to sever and remove preferably the connecting thread or threads between the joined segments and locate the separated segments for subsequent handling. In many garment making operations, the segments must be angularly displaced or turned upon the reverse side as they are stacked or discharged in preparation for the following operation. Such' cutting, rotating, stacking and turning operations, when manually performed, of course, materially increase the cost of the finished article or garment.

It is often necessary to sew a particular pattern or stitch configuration on a fabric segment to be used as a garment component before the segment is attached to a garment, such as, forexample, in the preparation of the pockets, belt loops and the like for dungarees and similar sports pants. The provision of a stitched design on a rear pocket of dungarees, for instance, is normally accomplished by the sewing machine operator manually positioning the pocket beneath the sewing instrumentalities tosew the prescribed design along or within prescribed limits. The operation is time consuming, fatigueing to the operator and subject to human inaccuracies inherent in a repetitious production line procedure.

The present invention was developed first to meet the fabric segment separating requirement and additionally to eliminate the particularly demanding job of controlling a sewing machine to sew a prescribed stitch configuration on a garment component. The invention embodies two separate machines and methods, each of which may be used individually to perform selected operations and both of which may be used cooperatively to provide a fabric handling and treating mechanism and method of great utility.

The first portion of the invention in the illustrated THE .form includes a method and apparatus for handling connected material segments, the apparatus comprising basically a support surface and a plurality of drive rolls mounted on the base to engage the chained material segments'sequentially and urge them along a directed path of travel over the surface. Guide lugs are mounted on the surface so that the segments can be drawn against the lugs by the drive rolls and move, in alignment, along the directed path of travel. A cutter is positioned on the support surface to sever the connected segments upon actuation. The cutter is activated by means of photoelectric cells positioned to detect the sequentially advancing segments, and when activated, the connecting thread or threads will be severed at the junction of the thread to each segment and thus completely removed. A conveyor ejects the severed segments at a location remote from the cutter so that they may be collected or sequentially transferred in alignment by means of a transfer mechanism for subsequent manual or mechanized handling.

The second portion of the invention in the form illustrated is a method and apparatus for treating separated material segments such as results from the method and apparatus previously discussed, this second apparatus including a programmed sewing machine positioned to operate on a second support surface which will receive separated and aligned material segments. A segment orienting device having an air cylinder'actuated linkage receives the aligned material segments sequentially from a transfer mechanism or operator near the sewing machine which, when actuated by a control program,

v will stitch the segments sequentially to form a predetermined pattern or design, the air cylinder-actuated orienting mechanism moving the segment appropriately relative to the sewing instrumentalities for the sewing operation. The sewn segments are then, as a result of the sewing operation, again connected by a thread or threads joining each. segment to its adjacent segments.

Thus, an operation using each method and apparatus disclosed provides an endless chain of connected segments each of which bears a stitched design from an initially introduced chain of connected blank segments. The separation of the stitched connected segments can again be accomplished by using the first portion of the mechanism described.

It is, therefore, a primary object of the present invention to provide a material handling apparatus for automatically separating continuously connected fabric segments while maintaining the severed segments in alignment.

It is a further primary object of the present invention to provide a segment handling device of the type described which will preposition sequentially introduced fabric segments to sewing instrumentalities for the subsequent formation of a predetermined stitched design.

A further object of the present invention is to provide individual segment handling machines which may operate independently or collectively to perform desired material handling and treating operations.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide material handling apparatus of the type described having a uniquely constructed and operated photoelectric cell-actuated cutter for severing and removing the thread or threads connecting a continuous chain of connected segments.

Yet still another object of the present invention is to provide an apparatus for handling and treating material segments having a segment orienting mechanism and cooperating guide rollers which may operatively displace each introduced segment relative to the sewing instrumentalities to achieve a predetermined and programmed stitch design and adjust the segment for rotation about the proper sewing needle in the event a plurality of needles are used.

Yet still another further object of the present invention is to provide material handling apparatus of the type described which can automatically accept a continuous supply of chained material segments, separate and orient those segments with respect to sewing in-- strumentalities, and subsequently provide a programmed stitched design on each segment while rechaining the segments, if desired, for subsequent handling.

These and other attendant advantages will become more apparent from a reading of the following detailed specification taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings wherein like characters of reference designate like parts throughout the several views.

FIGURE DESCRIPTION FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the combined material handling and treating apparatus which collectively are adapted to introduce initially chained and subsequently separated material segments sequentially to sewing instrumentalities for the affixation of a pre-programmed stitch design.

FIG.,2 is a plan view of the material handling apparatus constituting one part of the present invention showing a plurality of chained material segments being advanced to the cutter for separation.

FIG. 3 is a side elevational fragmentary view of the apparatus shown in FIG. 2.

FIG. 4 is a side elevational sectional fragmentary view of the solenoid operated cutter used to separate the chained material segments.

FIG. 5 is a perspective, sectional and fragmentary view of the transfer mechanism used to engage sequentially severed material segments, move those segments through a predetermined distance and deposit each of the segments in a preselected manner adjacent sewing instrumentalities for subsequent stitching.

FIG. 6 is a perspective fragmentary view of the ramp positioned rearwardly of the sewing instrumentalities which receives the chained and design-stitched material segments.

FIG. 7 is a side elevational and fragmentary view of the air cylinder-actuated segment orienting device for positioning an individually engaged material segment proximate the sewing instrumentalities.

' FIG. 8 isa side elevational and fragmentary view of the internal portion of the material treating apparatus console showing the general arrangement of the drive motors for machine components along with the counter used to program machine operations.

FIG. 9 is a top elevational fragmentary view of the segment orienting device showing the rotation control air cylinder fully retracted thus maintaining the segment-engaging ring in a first segment locating position.

to the first sewing operation.

FIG. llb is a top elevational schematic view of the fabric orienting device holding a material segment which has been sewn through a first preselected distance and displaced relative to the sewing instrumentalities for commencement of the next sewing operation.

FIG. 110 is a top elevational schematic view of the fabric orienting device holding a material segment which has been sewn through a second programmed distance and displaced relative to the sewing instrumentalities for commencement of the next sewing operation.

IFIG. 11d is a top elevational schematic view of the fabric orienting device holding a material segment which has been sewn through a third programmed distance and turned for commencement of a final sewing operation before discharge from the sewing instrumentalities.

FIG. 12 is a perspective fragmentary view of a thread break sensor mechanism used to detect faulty thread feed or a thread break in a sewing operation on the material treating apparatus so that a shutdown will occur.

FIG. 13 is a circuit diagram of the low voltage circuit used in conjunction with the photoelectric cell control system for operating the cutter.

FIG. 14 is a circuit diagram of the photoelectric cell control system circuit and its power supply used in the present invention.

FIG. 15 is a circuit diagram of the power circuit of the present invention used to drive the component motors and actuate the high and low speed clutches connecting these motors.

FIG. 16 is a detailed circuit diagram of the operational control circuit of the present invention.

FIG. 17 is a perspective fragmentary view of a pair of guide rollers associated with the presser foot of the sewing machine which may be positioned to control the sewing of a particular stitch configuration.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention can best be classified as comprising two singularly and collectively operable apparatuses and can best be described by considering the two units individually. The material handling device generally designated 20 is comprised basically of a flat supporting or working surface 22 held in a substantially horizontal position a suitable distance above the floor by support 24 which can be adjusted and moved from place to place because of support-bearing rollers 26. The apparatus is particularly designed to handle an endless supply of chained or linked material segments 28 maintained at an appropriate distance for convenient segment feeding characteristics. A gear motor 29 drives two pairs of cooperating drive rolls 30 and 31 by a belt 33 which receive the initial segment and provide a feeding mechanism for continuously moving the linked segments 28 through the material handling apparatus 20. A pair of guide and aligning lugs 32 are positioned along one edge of working surface 22 in a manner to communicate continuously with the common sewn and linked edge 34 of segments 28. Because the supply of linked segments 28 is fed continuously to rolls 30 and 31, the guide and aligning members 32 insure introduction of the linked segments 28 to the roll in consistent registry since the positioning of the segment supply causes the connected segments to bear against the lugs as they are moved along their directed path of travel.

A solenoid actuated cutter indicated generally as 36 is positioned between the pairs of rolls 30 and 31, and the blade 38 of the cutter which moves when the solenoid 40 is energized serves to sever the connecting thread or threads 39 between eachsegment 28 at the junction of the threads with the segments. Two photoelectric cells are used to detect the edges of the fabric segments so as to actuate solenoid 40 and displace blade 38, and the operation of the photoelectric cells to control the cutter 36 will be more particularly described during the detailed description of the circuit diagram. A conveyor 41 driven by belt 33 moves the separated segments in registry to a location remote from the. cutter for subsequent collection or handling while a guide roll 31 and a pair of brushes 37 assist in maintaining the separated segments in alignment. Once the separated segments 28 have been positioned by conveyor 41 at a location 43, a photoelectric device shown generally as 45 stops the motor driving belt 33 when covered by a segment and .reactivates that motor when the segment is removed. A transfer mechanism generally designated 42 has been found suitable for removing the aligned and severed segments sequentially while maintaining the alignment to related handling or sewing equipment, and this device will be more particularly described in conjunction with the second portion of the present invention.

The photoelectric cell power supply and control system is contained in a cabinet 44 located beneath the suport surface 22 and against the support 24 for convenience in maintenance and replacement of parts. Additionally, the material handling apparatus 20 has been provided with a connecting flange 46 properly positioned to permit an expeditious and accurate connection between apparatus 20 and related machinery such as the sewing device generally designated 46 subsequently to be described.

It is within the present invention concept to provide material handling apparatus operative with related equipment, and that equipment may act upon or treat the segments by shaping, sewing or any number of subsequent handling operations particularly useful in the production of garments and the like. As part of the present invention, a novel sewing apparatus has been provided for cooperative use with the material handling device previously described. The apparatus is basically comprised of a console 48 housing a number of the drive motors and related control circuitry upon which is secured a working or support surface 50 independent of the surface 22 of the material handling apparatus 20 sustaining a segment orienting device generally shown as 52 for securing, rotating and/or displacing a segment beneath the sewing instrumentalities 53 of a cooperating and automatically operated sewing machine 54. A fabric segment newly introduced or is transferred from apparatus 20 manually or by the transfer mechanism 42 later to be described over to the orienting device 52 where it is securely received and selectively positioned under the sewing instrumentalities .53 for the subsequent stitching of a programmed design.

The stitching of each individual segment to produce a stitched design results in a rechaining or reconnecting of all segments which have been stitched, this reconnection being best illustrated in FIG. 6. In the embodiment illustrated herein, a double thread row stitched W" is placed on each individual segment, and each of the segments is interconnected with adjacent segments by both thread rows from the stitching instrumentalities 53. The stitched segments are then collected for subsequent handling or separation manually or by apparatus similar to that previously discussed.

Now that the basic components of both facets of the present invention have been generally described, these tween limits, lowered when there is pivotal movement components and their functions will be considered in detail with reference to particular views of the drawings. v v v The solenoid operated cutter 36 particularly illustrated in FIG. 4 is selectively actuated by two photoelectric cells to sever the connecting thread or threads joining the material segments. When the cutter blade is first displaced by operation of the solenoid 40, the trailing connecting thread or threads of an individual segment is severed just at the location where the thread extends from the segment. The subsequent segment, however, is still affixed to this, now leading thread, and in order to dispose properly of this surplus material, the cutter blade is actuated so that a very minute portion of the leading edge of the material segment is actually removed thus insuring that the remaining connecting thread portion is also eliminated. Thus the cutter blade 38 is displaced twice upon the passing of a first material segment and the introduction of a second connected segment. The sequence of photoelectric cell operations to actuate the cutter will be described further with reference to the circuit diagrams.

The transfer mechanism referenced above and shown generally as 42 includes a vertical support shaft 58 at the upper end of which is affixed a segment-engaging member 60 normally biased upwardly by a spring 83 and adapted to move with shaft 58 selectively between limits. Member 60 has a suction cap 62 to which is connected (through the interior channel of member 60 and outlet 61) a vacuum generating aspirator (not shown) so that when a segment is disposed along the opening of the cap, the force of the vacuum will hold the segment to the cap by suction until the vaccum is released.

A rotating linkage 66 drives a connecting member 68 to rotate and displace vertically vertical shaft 58 through a floating linkage 81. A vertical stationary sleeve 70 has a base flange 72 at its lower end and is firmly affixed to the cabinet housing 48 by brackets 78 or equivalent means in any suitable or convenient manner.

When linkage 66 is rotated by, for example, driving chain 80, connecting member 68 will urge the floating linkage 81 to pivot (see arrow) first vertically about an extending leg 82 to elevate shaft 58 and raise the suction cap 62. As the linkage 66 then starts its horizontal clockwise rotation (see arrow), the floating linkage 81 will rotate about the shaft 58 until extension 84 engages stop 85 at which time the linkage will cease all rotation. Upon a reversal of the above movement to complete a full cycle, i.e., the segment-engaging member rotates back through its previous path to return to the position shown in FIG. 5, linkage 66 causes the floating linkage 81 first to pivot vertically about fulcrum 82so that shaft 58 is lowered. Thus the movement of the transfer arm is two-fold in that there is pivotal movement in a generally horizontal direction between limits and there is vertical movement of the assembly during each portion of the cycle so as to allow the engagement and release of a fabric segment secured by the suction cap. In operational sequence commencing with each cycle, the segment-engaging member 60 is lowered to engage a segment against the suction cap 62, raised when the floating linkage 81 is pivoted about a fulcrum established by extending leg 82, rotated horizontally beabout leg 82in a vertical direction, raised after the seg- The segment orienting device. generally designated 52 includes a segment engaging rotating ring 84 supported for rotational and linear movement by a first and second ring engaging linkage 86 and 88. The ring will lower onto a positioned segment and frictionally retain the segment for rotational or linear motion. The two linkages 86 and 88 are shiftably movable in unison because their connecting members 90 and 92 are pivotally secured at points 94 and 96 to a horizontal and movable arm 98. An adjustable lug 87 is secured, for example, to arm 98 to provide a stop for limiting the movement of the linkages selectively. An aircylinder 100 is operably secured to arm 98 and linkage 88 so that uponactuation, the cylinder piston 102 will be displaced from cylinder 100, extend outwardly and displace linkage 88 to the extent that ring 84 will be rotated in a counterclockwise direction and any segment or material secured therebeneath would be rotated accordingly. The retraction of piston 102 within cylinder 100 will then rotate ring 84in a clockwise direction by extending linkage 86 and withdrawing linkage 88 as particularly illustrated in-FIG. 7.

To displace ring 84 and its associated control linkages upwardly or laterally, two additional air-actuated cylinders 104 and 106 are provided and are secured to the mechanism as shown in FIG. 5. A baseblock 108 has an extension 110 and provides a fulcrum for pivotal movement generated by both cylinders 104 and 106. A first pivotally secured vertical member 112 is operatively connected at its upper end to cylinder 104 by a piston 114 and is movably connected at its lower end to arm 98 so that upon actuation of cylinder 104 and the movement of piston 114, arm 98, which actually supports the entire ring and ring rotating control assembly, is laterally displaced a predetermined distance so as to align the mid-point of ring 84 with the correct needle, 116 or 118, of sewing instrumentalities 53.

A bell crank'l20 is pivotally secured to arm 110 and connects with piston 121 of cylinder 106 at its upper end. The lower portion of hell crank 120 communicates with linkage 122 which is pivotally secured to extension 98."When cylinder 106 is actuated and piston 121 is displaced by that actuation, bell crank 120 rotates within limits to lower or raise ring 84 and its control assembly to secure a segment placed therebeneath, or, alternatively, to release a segment previously secured by an earlier operation.

While a particularly designed air cylinder has been referenced herein for displacing the orienting device, obviously a great number of components are available including step motors, solenoids, polynoid motors, gear motors and multiple combinations of air cylinders having strokes of varying distances.

The operation of the ring and its described displacement control devices will be further discussed when considering the circuit diagram and the overall operation of the present invention.

A sewing machine. 54 is positioned on surface 50 and, as previously discussed, has sewing instrumentalities 53 that include parallel operating needles 116 and 118 for stitching parallel seams. While the structural components of the machine 54 are conventional, the mode of operation of this particular machine with respect to the sewing apparatus illustrated herein is novel and embodies, among other things, a uniquely designed thread usage sensor generally shown as 124. Two pairs of thread supports 126 and 128 carry thread from the thread supplies 127 and 129 of the machine 54 to the needles 116 and 118. Two relays 130 and 132 are mounted on a small platform 134 along the bridge of the machine 54. The armatures of these coils form two extending arms 136 and 138, and these arms engage each thread extending from the supplies 127 and 129 so that movement of the arms 136 and 138 by energization of relays 130 and 132 will affect the strands. Thus energizing these relays will deflect the arms 136 and 138 and pull thread from the supply to create slack. When thread is used, the slack will be removed and the thread strands will engage arms 136 and 138 and close the relays. The operational characteristics of the sensor 124 in combination with the overall apparatus operation will be specifically discussed with reference to the circuit diagram subsequently to be described.

The machine operational program in the preferred embodiment of the present invention is controlled by a preset counter responsive to a specific determined number of electrical pulses such as that manufactured by The Durant Company, the indicator portion of which is shown in FIG. 8 and generally designated 142. The counter has a number of contacts which are set to receive a preselected number of electrical pulses at which time a switching operation takes place and alternate circuits for apparatus component energization are provided. The counter 142 permits a desired number of electrical pulses to control the operations of each of the components of the present invention including the stitching by the sewing machine 54 of a programmed design on the individual material segments 28. Included in this pulse program control is a speed regulator for the sewing machine to cause the machine to sew at a lower speed just prior to a repositioning of the segment upon which stitching is taking place. While a pulse responsive counter is used in this instance, program control of the invention may be achieved by using other devices such as tape recorders, timing belts or chains, and cooperating cams and switches, each of which may provide certain advantages under particular circumstances or conditions.

The console 48 while providing a supporting surface 50 for the sewing machine 54 also houses the majority of the drive motors used in operating the sewing machine, transfer arm and related components.

The power circuit is illustrated in FIG. 15 includes a three-phase source 144 which services the three-phase high-speed sewing machine motor 146, the three-phase low-speed sewing machine motor 148 as well as the transfer mechanism motor 150. Additionally, a stepdown single phase transformer 152 feeds a DC. rectifier 154,- the output of which provides power for a highspeed clutch solenoid 156 selectively engaging the high-speed sewing machine motor 146 and a low-speed clutch solenoid 158 selectively engaging the low-speed sewing machine motor 148. Positive control of the clutching system is provided by including a breaking clutch solenoid 160 which will insure no machine operation when both the high-speed and low-speed clutch are disengaged. The secondary of transformer 152 supplies voltage for the operational control circuit, the terminals of which are designated 162 and 164.

The combined operation of both apparatuses making up the present invention will be described with reference to the circuit diagram of FIG. 16 since all operating characteristics of both machines may be considered most expeditiously in this manner. Obviously either machine may be operated independently or in conjunction with other machines utilizing the circuitry disclosed with only minor modifications well within the ability of one skilled in circuit design or maintenance.

The cycle is initiated by actuation of the start switch 166 which will energize the high-speed relay 168, which causes the'sewing machine to sew at high speed through high-speed clutch 156, a circuit being established from terminal 162 through contact 170 of emergency stop relay 172 (energized unless a fault occurs), start switch 166 and normally closed contacts 173 and 174, the coil of relay 168 to terminal 164. Actuation of relay 168 will close an associated contact 176 which provides a holding circuit from the counter 142 to relay 168. The counter stage (No. 1) will operate until the programmed pulses in the high speed portion 178 of the counter have been counted down, normally closed contact b opens and the alternate normally open contact a closes to provide power to the low-speed relay 184, the circuit established extending through contact a, normally closed contact d, normally closed contacts 188 and 190 and through relay 184.

The energization of relay 184, the low speed relay, will engage the low speed sewing machine motor 148 through clutch 158 and retain that motor in operation until the next stage (No. 2) of counter 142 has counted down from the number of stored pulses at which time contact d opens and relay 184 becomes deenergized. When relay 184 became energized, a start pulse was supplied through its contacts 192 for the segment orienting device motor 194.

Motor 194 rotates a timed cycle controller (not shown) which is comprised of a plurality and cams moving in response to motor rotation to trip selective switches. As the controller, hereinafter referred to by motor character 194, commences its cycle, it first closes contacts 196 which provides a constant circuit to motor 194 until a cycle is completed. The controller is adjusted so that nothing is actuated until the sewing machine 54 has stopped with the needles 116 and 118 in the raised position.

When the next pre-set stage (No. 2) on counter 142 has pulsed down, contact d opens and contact closes to establish a circuit, not to the high speed relay 168 through the holding contacts 176, but through normally closed contacts 200, 202 and a pair of breaker points 204, which are positioned on the hand wheel (not shown) of sewing machine 54. These breaker points are adjusted so that they will open when the needles 116 and 118 are in the raised position. When points 202 are closed, a circuit remains to low speed relay 184 so that the sewing machine continues operation until the needles reach the raised position.

The timed cycle controller 194, by adjustment, rotates and dwells until the sewing machine 54 stops in the raised needle position. Once this position is reached, contacts 204 close to bring the ring 84 down by actuating the ringdown solenoid 206. The presser foot raising solenoid 208 is energized by the camoperated switch 210 to raise the sewing machine pressor foot. Cam-operated switch 212 then closes to cause the ring 84 to rotate (the direction of rotation depending on limit switch 214), and switch 210 opens to deenergize the foot-up solenoid and thus allow the presser foot to be lowered. Switch 204 opens to allow the ring to raise, and then switch 216 closes momentarily to start the sewing machine back in high speed operation by permitting energization of the high speed relay 168. When the cycle is complete and the controller 194 returns to the start position, switch 196 opens. This deenergizes the controller-driven orienting device motor 194. The sewing machine is now sewing at high speed due to the energization of the high speed relay 168, and the closing of contacts 176 establishes a circuit to the normally closed contacts f of the next pre-set counter stage (No. 4). I

Since the Durant counter is staged for sequential operation, pre-set stage No. 3 will operate before stage No. 4. Pre-set stage No. 3, when operated, energizes the shift solenoid 220 and holds it energized so as to shift the ring 84 to a second needle position. This physically operates limit switch 214 to connect switch 212 to the opposite rotate solenoid.

Operation continues at high speed until the pulse number established for pre-set stage No. 4 on the high speed counter is reached. At this instant, the counter deenergizes relay 168 and energizes relay 184 which places the sewing machine in low speed, and the segment orienting motor 194 is started. The same cycle is then repeated, i.e., the orienting motor does nothing until the sewing machine stops with the needle up, and then goes through its complete cycle as previously described wherein the ring goes down, the foot is raised, the ring is rotated, the foot is lowered, the ring is raised, and the sewing machine is restarted in high speed operation. Pulse countdown in preset stage No. 6 disconnects (contact t opens) the shift solenoid 220 and returns the ring to the original shift position which physically operates or deactivates switch 214 to allow rotation in the proper direction when the time cycle controller is again operated.

High speed sewing continues until the proper pulse count is reached to operate pre-set stage No. 7 which shifts the sewing machine from high speed to low speed operation as previously described. The proper number of stitches at low speed are made as the controller 194 operates again. The machine stops with the needle up, the timed controller completes its cycle of ring down, foot up, rotate, foot down, ring up and high speed sewing again.

Sewing continues at high speed until the counter reaches pre-set stage No. 9 which disconnects the timed controller motor 194 (contacts x open) so that it will not operate the next time the machines goes to low speed operation. Preset stage No. 10 pulses down and starts the transfer motor 222 to send the next fabric segment into a sew position beneath the ring 84. Sewing continues, for the transfer motor takes about two seconds for a complete rotation or about one sec- 0nd from the time it is energized until a segment is in the sewed position. Timing to position a pocket in the sew location is necessary so as to have the pocket seated when it is needed. The transfer motor cycle will be described subsequently.

Operation of the sewing machine 54 continues at high speed until the complete pulse countdown of preset stage No. 11 at which time the operation shifts from high, speed to low speed sewing. After pulse countdown in preset stage No. 12, operation shifts from low speed sewing to stop, and the sewing machine is stopped now with the needles in the raised position. The transfer motor 222 (used to rotate the mechanism 42 illustrated in FIG. 3) is now running and is retained in the run positioned by a transfer controller switch 224 which is a normally closed switch that is held open only when the device is in the home or rest position.

Now in a predetermined sequence, which occurs upon rotation of the transfer mechanism, a camoperated transfer control switch 226 is closed momentarily to energize the vacuum on solenoid 228. Switch 226 also operates another counter 230 which counts the total number of cycles of the machine, i.e., the number of segments which are sewn. The transfer arm continues to move and operates another transfer control switch 232 which serves to monitor relay 206 whose contacts 234 will be closed if the relay is energized. v

A vacuum sensor switch 236 is wired in parallel across another transfer control switch 238. The vacuum sensor switch 236 will be closed provided a vacuum has been generated by picking up a fabric segment, and transfer control switch 238 is opened momentarily to determine if a segment has been picked up. Yet another transfer control switch 240, when closed (it has both normally open and normally closed contacts) resets the pre-set counter 142.

As the transfer mechanism moves the fabric segment into position, it must be placed under the presser foot of the sewing machine 54. Another transfer control switch 242 energizes the foot up solenoid 208 to lift the presser foot and hold it up until the segment has been placed thereunder. The foot is then dropped back down on the segment, and transfer control switch 244 is operated momentarily to turn of the vacuum. The

. vacuum solenoid is a two-coil solenoid and maintains the last position at which it was energized.

The rotate solenoids 246 and 248 are actually two solenoid valves and remain in the position to which they were last activated.

The next to last operation of the transfer mechanism is to close momentarily a transfer control switch 250, and this supplies a new start signal to commence machine operation sewing at high speed on a new cycle. The final operation of the tranfer mechanism is to open transfer control switch 224 which causes a shutdown in the transfer mechanism operation.

The thread break detector previously described and illustrated particularly in FIG. 12 operates effectively to insure a proper and continuous thread supply to the sewing machine during sewing operation. When switch 204 is operated, the rotator clown solenoid valve 206 is energized by the closing of that switch and relays 252 and 254 are energized. Simultaneously, the other side of the dual switch 204 breaks the circuit to relay 256 causing contact 258 to open. Relays 252 and 254 are modified so that energizing the coil of each relay physically opens its contacts and deenergizing the coil of each will not close the contacts. Thread is attached to the arms 136 and 138 of these relays in such a manner that pulling thread through eyelets or loops attached to the arm of the relay will close the contacts. Energizing the relays will pull thread from the supply and thus cre ate slack, and the using of thread will remove this slack and close the contacts. If these contacts close even momentarily, they will energize relay 256 which will lock in on its own contacts and short out switch 232. This switch is opened momentarily during the transfer in as a check to see if thread has been used since switch 204 was operated.

It is oftentimes necessary to check the sewing of the machine in both high and low speeds without operating other components of the device, and a feature has been provided'in the present disclosure to allow this manual sewing for test and other purposes. A jack and cooperating foot pedal is used to energize a manual sew pedal relay 260 and this relay, when the plug in the foot pedal is connected, makes connection through the jumper 262. Energization of relay 260 opens normally closed contact 264 which is in series with the emergency stop relay 170. This removes all power from the start circuit in which is contained the start switch 166. Relay 260 also opens the normally closed contact 202 that is in the high speed relay circuit which will thus prevent the high speed relay from being operated by anything other than the foot pedal switch. The normally closed contact 202 is opened which disconnects the breaker points 204, and normally closed contact 188 is also controlled by relay 260.

The manual sew pedal generally designated 266, when the pedal is not depressed, is normally supplied with power from 162 through closed contact 268, through the breaker points 204 and to the low speed relay 184 if the breaker points are closed. This will allow the sewing machine to run at low speed until the breaker points open. Pressing slightly on the pedal will operate switch 268 so as to open a normally closed switch and close the normally open portion of the switch. This will supply power through the closed portion of switch 268, through switch 270 which is normally closed and to the low speed relay 184 so that the sewing machine can then run at low speed continuously. Depressing the foot pedal an additional amount will operate switch 270 so that a circuit is established to the high speed relay 168 allowing the sewing machine to sew at high speeds. The provision of a capacitor and resistor in series with the number of relays are to protect the contacts of a pre-set counter. A safety pressure switch 272 is an adjustable air pressure operated switch which is adjusted for a minimum required pressure. If the pressure falls below the set minimum, this switch will open and deenergize the emergency stop relay which will stop the machine. The switch is provided as a safety feature to prevent operation of the machine without sufficient air pressure.

The control system for the material handling apparatus 20 may be used, of course, with the sewing machine described herein or with other machines. The device, as previously indicated, consists of pairs of drive rolls 31 and 31, and a conveyor 41 which are driven by a small gear motor 29.

The power supply for the gear motor device and photoelectric control unit consists of a D.C. power supply generally designated 274 connected across a 208 volt three-phase power supply to provide approximately 300 volts DC. A resistor 280 is connected across capacitor 276 to bleed the device down when power is disconnected. Another capacitor 282 is connected as shown in FIG. 12 with four normally opened contacts 284 of relay 286 and four normally closed contacts 288 of that same relay all connected in series. The four norrnally closed contacts 288 are connected in parallel with the solenoid 40 and capacitor 282.

In the operational scheme, two photoelectric cells 287 and 289 of a photoelectric amplifier 290 are connected in parallel. When the first cell 287 is covered by an advancing material segment, the contact of the photoelectric amplifier 290 are closed to energize relay 286. (Covering the second uncovered cell'289 will not alter these conditions.) This in turn closes the normally opened contact 284 and opens the normally closed contacts 288 of that relay. This operation connects the solenoid 40 in serieswith its capacitor 282 across the fully charged supply capacitor 276. Thus the solenoid will be energized while the capacitor is being energized or charged. As soon as the capacitor in series with the solenoid is completely charged, the solenoid will no longer be energized and a pulsing of the solenoid is obtained.

As the advancing material segment continues along its predetermined path of travel, both of the photoelectric cells 287 and 289 are uncovered sequentially at which time the photoelectric amplifier 290 is deenergized, relay 286 is deenergized, contacts 284 reopen and contacts 288' close. The result is that the capacitor 282 in series with solenoid 40 now discharges through that solenoid and through the normally closed contacts 288 of relay 286. Thus the solenoid operates to displace the cutter blade 38 when one cell is covered and the solenoid operates again to displace blade 38 the second time when both cells are exposed to the light. The device is 'most advantageous in that two pulses are obtainable from two combined photoelectric cells to provide two cutting operations of the blade 38 of the solenoid.

Photoelectric cell 293 operates a photoelectric amplifier 292 which in turn closes normally open contacts 295 to actuate relay motor starter 299. Actuation of the starter will close contacts 297 so that the drive motor 29 is initiated and will continue to run until a material segment covers the photoelectric cell 293.

While specific reference has been made to the provision of a W stitch pattern design, obviously the present invention is capable of producing any number of stitch configurations since there is no specific limiting factor with regard to'the fabric orienting device associated with the sewing instrumentalities of the machine. Additionally a guide control device having guide rollers 300 may be cooperatively associated with the presser foot 302 or sewing instrumentalities of a conventional sewing machine in a manner such as illustrated in FIG. 17, and these rollers may be strategically positioned to skew the material segment to the extent necessary in providing a curved or arcuate sewn seam. The rollers are pivotal about a pin 304 though biased downwardly by a spring 306 during the sewing operation so that the knurled portions 308 of the rollers 300 will contact, guide and at least partially control (along with the seg ment orienting device) the displacement of material segment during the sewing operation. Thus any number of segment positioning techniques are available for rotating, shifting or moving in any fashion the segment with respect to the sewing instrumentalities for stitchmg.

The present invention has been particularly described with respect to two main operating components, a material handling apparatus and a cooperating material treating apparatus for performing stitch designs on material segments. The two devices are independently and collectively significant, and it is obvious that they may be used singularly either alone or with other related equipment or together in a varietyof ways to accomplish any number of handling and stitching operations. The provision of a preset control counter for programming the overall operation of these devices is flexible to the extent that any variety of operations may be so programmed by setting the countdown mechanisms for the necessary pulses to perform a given function per stage of the counter.

While it is readily apparent that any number of modifications may be made in the material handling apparatus and the treating apparatus including the photoelectric control cell for operating the segment separator, the segment orienting mechanism and the thread break sensor as well as other phases of the present inventive concept, such modifications and the use of equivalents may be made without departing from the real spirit and purpose of this invention and are contemplated. device, said orienting mechanism comprising a ring member adapted to be moved selectively while engaging a material segment to present the segment to the sewing instrumentalities for subsequent sewing, and means actuating the movement of said ring, said member actuating means including at least one airactuated cylinder operatively connected to said ring for rotating and linearly displacing said ring with respect to said sewing instrumentalities.

I claim:

1. A method of handling a supply of connected material segments, the segments having a common edge sewn by and suspended from connecting elements such that the segments are sequentially positioned in spaced relation along the connecting elements, comprising the steps of: feeding the connected segments sequentially along a directed path of travel, orienting and aligning the connected segments in a prescribed manner as they are moved along a directed path of travel by engaging the connecting elements and the common sewn edges of the segments; separating the connected and aligned segments as they are moved along a directed path of travel by severing the connecting elements intermediate adjacent segments; feeding the separated segments sequentially proximate sewing instrumentalities; simultaneously forming a plurality of parallel stitch lines on a segment with at least one abrupt change in direction of the stitch lines to achieve a preselected, irregular sewn pattern; reconnecting the separated segments with parallel stitch lines; and discharging the connected segments in a connected fashion.

2. The method of claim 1 wherein the material segments are separated by severing the connecting elements so that the connecting elements are removed.

3. The method of claim 2 wherein the separated seg ments are sequentially discharged in alignment.

4. The method of receiving and treating separated and aligned material segments comprising the steps of: feeding the aligned material segments sequentially proximate sewing instrumentalities having at least two needles; selectively stitching each sequentially fed segment with the sewing instrumentalities while positioning the segment to achieve an irregular, preselected sewn pattern by simultaneously sewing parallel stitch lines in a segment, reorienting the segment by disengag ing the needles from the segment and selectively rotating the segment about a point aligned with either of the needles, sewing parallel stitch lines connected with and disposed at an abrupt angle with respect to the first mentioned parallel stitch lines; and the reorienting and stitching are repeated as needed to achieve the sewn pattern on the segment; and ejecting the sewn segment upon completion of the pattern.

5. The method of claim 4 wherein the ejected segment is secured to adjacent segments by parallel stitch lines to form a connected string of sewn segments.

6. The method of handling material segments as claimed in claim 1, wherein the separated segments are fed sequentially by lifting and transferring the aligned material segments sequentially proximate the sewing instrumentalities; and the material segments are reconnected by selectively simultaneously stitching thread rows by multi-needle sewing instrumentalities.

7. The method of claim 6 wherein the discharged segments are secured to adjacent segments to form a connected string of sewn segments.

8. The method of claim 6 wherein the material segments are separated by severing the connecting elements between adjacent material segments so that the connecting elements .are completely removed, the

aligned and discharged segments are sequentially presented in consistent alignment for further handling, and the stitch lines are formed on each material segment by actuating the sewing instrumentalities for a first predetermined number of stitches, reoriented through a selected angular displacement, actuating the sewing instrumentalities for a second predetermined number of stitches and the reorienting and sewing are repeated as needed to achieve a preselected irregular sewn pattern on the segment.

7 9. An apparatus for handling a supply of material segments, the segments having a common edge sewn by and suspended from at least one connecting element such that the segments are sequentially positioned in spaced relation along the connecting element comprising: a supporting surface, feeding means adjacent said surface engaging the material segments sequentially to urge the connected segments along a directed path of travel; guide and aligning means proximate said surface engaging the connecting element and said segments along the common sewn edge for orienting the segments in a prescribed manner; cutter means following said guide and aligning means for removing the connecting element between adjacent segments by severing the connecting element at the location where it extends from one segment and cutting the connecting element and removing a minute portion of the adjacent segment; segment detecting means carried by said surface and operatively connected with said cutter means to sense the position of each of the segments and actuate the cutter means to remove the connecting element between adjacent segments; and means ejecting the aligned and'separated segments for subsequent handling.

10. The apparatus as claimed in claim 9 further comprising means for adjustably horizontally aligning the working surface to a preselected elevation.

11. The apparatus as claimed in claim 4, wherein said feeding means includes at least one drive roll positioned to receive and urge the connected segments sequentially along the working surface contiguous with said guide means.

12. The apparatus as recited in claim 9, wherein said segment detecting means includes photoelectric means responsive to the passage of a material segment and operative to activate said cutter and separate the segments.

13. The apparatus as claimed in claim 9, wherein said ejecting means includes conveyor means for moving sequentially the separated and aligned segments remote from said cutter.

14. The apparatus as claimed in claim 10, wherein said feeding means includes at least one drive roll positioned to receive and urge the connected segments sequentially along the working surface contiguous with said guide means; said segment detecting means including photoelectricmeans responsive to the passage of a material segment and operative to activate said cutter and separate the segments, and said ejecting means including conveyor means for moving sequentially the separated and aligned segments remote from said cutter.

15. An apparatus for receiving and treating separated and aligned material segments comprising: a support surface; a segment orienting device carried by said surface and adapted to receive-sequentially introduced material segments and displace the segments to preselected positions; sewing instrumentalities including at least two needles operatively positioned with said orienting device; means actuating said sewing instrumentalities and means intermittently displacing said orienting device with respect to said sewing instrumentalities to sew parallel stitch lines having at least one abrupt change of direction to form a predetermined irregular pattern as said orienting device moves the sewn segment, the needles of said sewing instrumentalities being withdrawn from said material segment before actuation of said orienting device displacing means, said orienting device displacing means selectively pivoting the segment in a predetermined direction about a point coinciding with either needle.

16. The apparatus according to claim 15 wherein the needles of the sewing instrumentalities are adapted to connect the sewn segments.

17. The apparatus as recited in claim 15 further comprising guide control means operative with said sewing instrumentalities at least partially controlling the displacement of the material segments introduced to said sewing instrumentalities,

18. The apparatus according to claim 17 further comprising a segment transfer mechanism introducing material segments sequentially to said orienting device.

19. The apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said transfer mechanism includes a transfer arm, a motor displacing said arm between limits, means for actuating said motor selectively, and suction means for securing an aligned segment in a remote location and releasing the segment when the transfer arm has positioned a segment at the orienting device.

20. The apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said orienting device comprises a ring member adapted to be moved selectively while engaging a material segment to present the segment to the sewing instrumentalities for subsequent sewing.

21. The apparatus according to claim 20, said means displacing said orienting device including at least one air-actuated cylinder operatively connected to said ring for rotating and linearly displacing said ring with respect to said sewing instrumentalities.

22. The apparatus according to claim 9 further comprising apparatus for receiving and treating separated and aligned material segments including a second supporting surface; a segment transfer mechanism proximate said surface; a segment orienting device carried by said surface; means for actuating said orienting device; sewing instrumentalities including a plurality of needles operatively positioned with said transfer mechanism and said orienting device; means actuating said sewing instrumentalities to sew segments sequentially according to a predetermined pattern having parallel stitch lines with at least one abrupt change of direction of said parallel stitch lines as said mechanism moves the sewn segment accordingly.

23. An apparatus according to claim 22 wherein the sewing instrumentalities are adapted to connect the sewn segments.

24. The apparatus as claimed in claim 23 further comprising guide control means operative with said sewing instrumentalities at least partially controlling the displacement of the material segments introduced to said sewing instrumentalities.

25. The apparatus according to claim 24 wherein said feeding means includes at least one drive roll positioned to receive and urge the connected segments sequentially along the working surface contiguous with said guide means; said segment detecting means including photoelectric means responsive to the passage of a material segment and operative to activate said cutter and separate the segments, and said ejecting means ineluding conveyor means for moving sequentially the separated and aligned segments remote from said cutter, the transfer mechanism including a transfer arm, a motor displacing said arm between limits, means for actuating said motor selectively, and suction means for securing an aligned segment in a remote location and releasing the segment when the transfer arm has positioned a segment at the orienting device, said orienting mechanism comprising at least one member adapted to be moved selectively while engaging the material segment to present the segment to the sewing instrumentalities for subsequent sewing, and means actuating the movement of said member, said member actuating means including at least one air-actuated cylinder operatively connected to said member for rotating and linearly displacing said member with respect to said sewing instrumentalities.

* Pk =l= 

1. A method of handling a supply of connected material segments, the segments having a common edge sewn by and suspended from connecting elements such that the segments are sequentially positioned in spaced relation along the connecting elements, comprising the steps of: feeding the connected segments sequentially along a directed path of travel, orienting and aligning the connected segments in a prescribed manner as they are moved along a directed path of travel by engaging the connecting elements and the common sewn edges of the segments; separating the connected and aligned segments as they are moved along a directed path of travel by severing the connecting elements intermediate adjacent segments; feeding the separated segments sequentially proximate sewing instrumentalities; simultaneously forming a plurality of parallel stitch lines on a segment with at least one abrupt change in direction of the stitch lines to achieve a preselected, irregular sewn pattern; reconnecting the separated segments with parallel stitch lines; and discharging the connected segments in a connected fashion.
 2. The method of claim 1 wherein the material segments are separated by severing the connecting elements so that the connecting elements are removed.
 3. The method of claim 2 wherein the separated segments are sequentially discharged in alignment.
 4. The method of receiving and treating separated and aligned material segments comprising the steps of: feeding the aligned material segments sequentially proximate sewing instrumentalities having at least two needles; selectively stitching each sequentially fed segment with the sewing instrumentalities while positioning the segment to achieve an irregular, preselected sewn pattern by simultaneously sewing parallel stitch lines in a segment, reorienting the segment by disengaging the needles from the segment and selectively rotating the segment about a point aligned with either of the needles, sewing parallel stitch lines connected with and disposed at an abrupt angle with respect to the first mentioned parallel stitch lines; and the reorienting and stitching are repeated as needed to achieve the sewn pattern on the segment; and ejecting the sewn segment upon completion of the pattern.
 5. The method of claim 4 wherein the ejected segment is secured to adjacent segments by parallel stitch lines to form a connected string of sewn segments.
 6. The method of handling material segments as claimed in claim 1, wherein the separated segments are fed sequentially by lifting and transferring the aligned material segments sequentially proximate the sewing instrumentalities; and the material segments are reconnected by selectively simultaneously stitching thread rows by multi-needle sewing instrumentalities.
 7. The method of claim 6 wherein the discharged segments are secured to adjacent segments to form a connected string of sewn segments.
 8. The method of claim 6 wherein the material segments are separated by severing the connecting elements between adjacent material segments so that the connecting elements are completely removed, the aligned and discharged segments are sequentially presented in consistent alignment for further handling, and the stitch lines are formed on each material segment by actuating the sewing instrumentalities for a first predetermined number of stitches, reoriented through a selected angular displacement, actuating the sewing instrumentalities for a second predetermined number of stitches and the reorienting and sewing are repeated as needed to achieve a preselected irregular sewn pattern on the segment.
 9. An apparatus for handling a supply of material segments, the segments having a common edge sewn by and suspended from at least one connecting element such that the segments are sequentially positioned in spaced relation along the connecting element comprising: a supporting surface, feeding means adjacent said surface engaging the material segments sequentially to urge the connected segments along a directed path of travel; guide and aligning means proximate said surface engaging the connecting element and said segments along the common sewn edge for orienting the segments in a prescribed manner; cutter means following said guide and aligning means for removing the connecting element between adjacent segments by severing the connecting element at the location where it extends from one segment and cutting the connecting element and removing a minute portion of the adjacent segment; segment detecting means carried by said surface and operatively connected with said cutter means to sense the position of each of the segments and actuate the cutter means to remove the connecting element between adjacent segments; and means ejecting the aligned and separated segments for subsequent handling.
 10. The apparatus as claimed in claim 9 further comprising means for adjustably horizontally aligning the working surface to a preselected elevation.
 11. The apparatus as claimed in claim 4, wherein said feeding means includes at least one drive roll positioned to receive and urge the connected segments sequentially along the working surface contiguous with said guide means.
 12. The apparatus as recited in claim 9, wherein said segment detecting means includes photoelectric means responsive to the passage of a material segment and operative to activate said cutter and separate the segments.
 13. The apparatus as claimed in claim 9, wherein said ejecting means includes conveyor means for moving sequentially the separated and aligned segments remote from said cutter.
 14. The apparatus as claimed in claim 10, wherein said feeding means includes at least one drive roll positioned to receive and urge the connected segments sequentially along the working surface contiguous with said guide means; said segment detecting means including photoelectric means responsive to the passage of a material segment and operative to activate said cutter and separate the segments, and said ejecting means including conveyor means for moving sequentially the separated and aligned segments remote from said cutter.
 15. An apparatus for receiving and treating separated and aligned material segments comprising: a support surface; a segment orienting device carried by said surface and adapted to receive sequentially introduced material segments and displace the segments to preselected positions; sewing instrumentalities including at least two needles operatively positioned with said orienting device; means actuating said sewing instrumentalities and means intermittently displacing said orienting device with respect to said sewing instrumentalities to sew parallel stitch lines having at least one abrupt change of direction to form a predetermined irregular pattern as said orienting device moves the sewn segment, the needles of said sewing instrumentalities being withdrawn from said material segment before actuation of said orienting device displacing means, said orienting device displacing means selectively pivoting the segment in a predetermined direction about a point coinciding with either needle.
 16. The apparatus according to claim 15 wherein the needles of the sewing instrumentalities are adapted to connect the sewn segments.
 17. The apparatus as recited in claim 15 further comprising guide control means operative with said sewing instrumentalities at least partially controlling the displacement of the material segments introduced to said sewing instrumentalities.
 18. The apparatus according to claim 17 further comprising a segment transfer mechanism introducing material segments sequentially to said orienting device.
 19. The apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said transfer mechanism includes a transfer arm, a motor displacing said arm between limits, means for actuating said motor selectively, and suction means for securing an aligned segment in a remote location and releasing the segment when the transfer arm has positioned a segment at the orienting device.
 20. The apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said orienting device comprises a ring member adapted to be moved selectively while engaging a material segment to present the segment to the sewing instrumentalities for subsequent sewing.
 21. The apparatus according to claim 20, said means displacing said orienting device including at least one air-actuated cylinder operatively connected to said ring for rotating and linearly displacing said ring with respect to said sewing instrumentalities.
 22. The apparatus according to claim 9 further comprising apparatus for receiving and treating separated aNd aligned material segments including a second supporting surface; a segment transfer mechanism proximate said surface; a segment orienting device carried by said surface; means for actuating said orienting device; sewing instrumentalities including a plurality of needles operatively positioned with said transfer mechanism and said orienting device; means actuating said sewing instrumentalities to sew segments sequentially according to a predetermined pattern having parallel stitch lines with at least one abrupt change of direction of said parallel stitch lines as said mechanism moves the sewn segment accordingly.
 23. An apparatus according to claim 22 wherein the sewing instrumentalities are adapted to connect the sewn segments.
 24. The apparatus as claimed in claim 23 further comprising guide control means operative with said sewing instrumentalities at least partially controlling the displacement of the material segments introduced to said sewing instrumentalities.
 25. The apparatus according to claim 24 wherein said feeding means includes at least one drive roll positioned to receive and urge the connected segments sequentially along the working surface contiguous with said guide means; said segment detecting means including photoelectric means responsive to the passage of a material segment and operative to activate said cutter and separate the segments, and said ejecting means including conveyor means for moving sequentially the separated and aligned segments remote from said cutter, the transfer mechanism including a transfer arm, a motor displacing said arm between limits, means for actuating said motor selectively, and suction means for securing an aligned segment in a remote location and releasing the segment when the transfer arm has positioned a segment at the orienting device, said orienting mechanism comprising at least one member adapted to be moved selectively while engaging the material segment to present the segment to the sewing instrumentalities for subsequent sewing, and means actuating the movement of said member, said member actuating means including at least one air-actuated cylinder operatively connected to said member for rotating and linearly displacing said member with respect to said sewing instrumentalities. 